Showing posts with label tutorial. Show all posts
Showing posts with label tutorial. Show all posts

Saturday, September 1, 2012

DIY Handmade Labels


A little over a month ago, I read a post from a fellow handmade clothing blogger, Teaka where she had an ADORABLE handmade label. After a bit of back and forth for figuring out how to make it sturdy, I gave it a try.

When I first purchased labels, I did it with the help of a Swedish friend through a website that only ships to Sweden. She was just days away from going home when we ordered and so the timing was perfect. It, of course, no longer is. Ha.

They were efficient, but not terribly attractive and not at all in line with my brand. So, it was time for an overhaul. And I am soooooo pleased with the results.

If you are a handmade gift giver, this is such a cute idea for the upcoming holidays.

I purchased acrylic craft paint, a customized rubber stamp and twill tape. Search your craft store's scrapbooking section to find cute labels that read "handmade" or make your own stamp from premade letters and a stamp block.

To make the labels:
First, use a foam brush to lightly dab the paint onto your stamp. Make sure to use as little paint as needed to cover so that you don't get gobs of it on your stamp.
Press on the twill tape and repaint stamp for each label.
Once dry, use an iron to heat-set the paint.
Snip labels apart with pinking shears to limit fraying.
When attaching, it's important to sew all the way around the label because your label won't unravel past the stitch.



Wednesday, June 13, 2012

How to Cut Shirt Sleeves


I own at least 6 long sleeve button down shirts that I rarely wear. When I sew, I move so much that I end up only wearing tank tops otherwise I feel too constrained. This means I end up spending most of my day unfit for company, wearing undershirts...

I'm hacking off some sleeves and you can do it too.

You'll need:
Button down shirt
Pinking shears or serger or zigzag stitch
Scissors

Step 1: Using scissors, cut off the sleeve. The hem should be on the sleeve when cut off, not the body of the shirt.



Step 2: Line up the sleeve so that top and bottom match. This may take some pinning and that's fine. Just get the top and bottom to lay on each other like pictured.


Step 3: Place sleeve under curve.


Step 4: Cut around armscye (arm hole) and hem on side and shoulder.


 When you remove the shirt, here's what you should have:


 Step 5: Cut strip to be about 1" in diameter. You just made a facing for your sleeve!


Step 6: Sew together top and bottom of the facing,


Step 7: Pin facing and armscye to each other; right sides together.


Step 8: Stitch together. I used my serger. You should use a straight stitch on your regular machine.


Step 9: For the raw side you can either serge, zigzag stitch or use pinking shears to keep it from unraveling. You can also double fold the raw edge under for a more professional look. I wanted something fast, so I will just be sewing this down.


Step 10: Once raw seams are sewn, fold away from the shirt body and tuck under. Pin the facing down.




 Step 11: Sew a straight stitch around the sleeve.



That's it. Now pull out all those shirts whose stained sleeves you've used for napkins and get going. Summer is here.

Thursday, February 9, 2012

How to Turn Boot Cut Jeans into Skinny Jeans Tutorial


John and I went shopping at a run-of-the-mill bargain outlet yesterday and I ran into a pair of royal blue pants. Having seen some really cute, bright J. Crew pants, I wanted a pair of my own. I settled for the $19 pair at the store. They were, however, boot cut and about 2-3 inches too long.

As spring approaches, it's good to know how to take a pair of boot cuts and turn them into skinny jeans or cigarette pants. (The above are cigarette, because I used a pair of cigarette pants to shape them.. you want skinny's then use a pair of skinny jeans to fit them.)



What you will need?
Pants to alter
Pants that fit just right
Sewing machine and a basic know-how
Seam Ripper (if you don't want to shorten them)
Scissors
Pins
Sharpie
Ruler
1-2 hours? I was done in 20 mins. But, I sew EVERY DAY. Please do let me know how long it takes you so I can adjust that number!

Start by laying out your pants inside out on a flat surface (table or floor).

There are 2 seams on your pant. The inside and the outside. The inside generally is sewn then top-stitched. This is because the inside seam receives a lot more wear and rubbing than the outside. You don't want to touch that stitch. Too much work. The outside stitch is serged and sewn. This is the one we will be messing with. Lay that seam flat. Iron it out if it won't lay flat.


Lay your guide pants on top of them also inside out, lining up the inner pant leg. You won't be able to line it up seam to seam because the front of the pants will be smaller than the back. Don't worry if that doesn't make sense. Just make sure that your inside seams line up while your outside seams are still laying flat.



Seam rip the hem about 3-4 inches away from the outer leg seam.



Begin pinning, again, making sure this seam is flat. If you don't, you will have pinched fabric and puckered seams.





I own a serger (overlock machine), so I serge the edges. No worries if you don't have one. You can zigzag stitch the edges or cut them with pinking shears. Cut and zigzag stitch after you've sewn your seam (next step).

Stitch along your your pins. Removing them as you sew.


Try on your pants! You have only placed one stitch. Now's the time to make sure they're fitting the way you want them to. You can remove this stitch and adjust if you need to. If they're fitting nicely. Take them back to your machine and run another stitch along them. Try to stitch directly on top of the seam you just sewed. I stitched mine 3 times. There are generally settings on your machine for a double or triple stitch, so check them out.


Do the same thing to the other side. You can use your guide pants again, or you can use the side you just completed.

If you like the length of your pant the way it is, perfect. Now you can clip the extra fabric where you see the serge edge on my pants below. Leave about 1/2-3/4" next to the seam. Then using the creases, pin, fold and stitch your hem.



If you want a higher hem, let's continue on:

When trying on your pants, tuck the access fabric up to where you'd like it to hit. When you remove your pants, pin the fold. Then, using a sharpie, mark the pant along the seam (this way it won't bleed through.)
Now measure to see how far up the pant this is (mine was 2.5"). Mark this on the inside and outside seams. Now measure 1.25" down from your line. You are about to create a hem.




Mark 1.25" away from your length on both seams as well. Take your sharpie and connect the 2 marks.


Cut along the line.




Now fold your fabric up to the mark you have on your seams (roughly 3/4"). It's a good idea to iron your seam flat.


Fold the fabric again, pinning as you go. You will not have any raw edges. They should all be tucked under your double fold.

Take the pants back to your machine and stitch the hem along the outside of the stitch. I placed my needle all the way to the left and used the left side of my presser foot as a guide.


Repeat for both sides.

Clip threads and you're done.




Please let me know if you have questions in the comments!